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The Russian River Valley is one of California’s well-known wine regions (or AVAs) located in northern Sanoma County. While over 20 varieties of grapes are grown in the valley, it’s most revered for its pinot noir and chardonnay which thrive in the cooler climate. But the valley has more to offer than internationally acclaimed wine – it’s also a outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. You can hike in redwood groves or coastal meadows, kayak along the river, and camp (or glamp) in a wide variety of settings (river front, ocean front, or deep in the forests). Did I mention there is also great beer?
Just 55 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge, you can reach the southern part of the valley in just over an hour. We chose to make the small northern town of Guerneville our home base as it was conveniently located to Armstrong Redwoods State National Reserve, two highly rated coastal hikes, the charming town of Healdsburg, and more vineyards than I could count. Easy river access and boat rentals were also available in downtown Guernville at the famous Johnshon’s Beach. As a town in the northern region of the Russian River Valley, Guernville is also pretty close to the Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley for those wishing to sample more varied terroir. If you want to read more on Sonoma’s many wine regions see the Wine Road site.
Notes on our Russian River Valley Travels
Accommodations
We chose to stay at the luxury Autocamp in Guerneville. “Glamping” was a new experience for me and I have to say, it was one I’d love to repeat – again and again. We selected a cozy safari tent but there were also luxury airstream trailers available for those willing to shell out a bit more.
The campground was lovely with tents and trailers arranged around a community green with a big bonfire pit. The clubhouse (lobby) was beautiful with like-spa like bathroom facilities, another big indoor fire pit, and a dining area where a continental breakfast was served. Breakfast included some of the best biscuits I’ve ever had from the local Big Bottom Market. Bikes were also made available for guests to pedal into town (about 5 minutes by bike).
I’ve provide a quick overview of our itinerary below along with useful references for anyone considering planning their own Russian River Valley excursion.
Day 1: A Stroll through the Redwoods plus Two Wineries
Our adventure began Tuesday morning in San Francisco where we picked up our rental car. We made a quick coffees stop and headed for the Golden Gate Bridge. There was a pull off across the bridge where we stopped to snap a few photos and stretch our legs. Then it was on to the Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve – about an hour and fifteen minutes north.
The park has an easy 1 mile loop (the Pioneer trail) through the largest redwood groves with a beautiful picnic area as well as several more strenuous trails. We took the Eastridge Trail to the picnic area and then hiked the Pool Trail and returned via the Pioneer trail for a total hike of about 3.5 miles (with some serious slopes). At the picnic area we feasted on salami, cheese, crackers, hummus, and veggies that we’d picked up at Trader Joe’s the day before. We ended up getting three meals out of our snack supply which saved us money for wine tasting!
Next it was on to Macrostie Winery where I’d scheduled a 2:30 wine tasting (fee was $25 per person). Upon arrival we were greeted by the hostess who gave us welcome pours of a crisp Sauvignon Blanc. We were then escorted to a terrace patio where we were seated and provided tasting menus. Rather than sitting/standing at a bar counter for the tasting, the staff bring the wines out one at a time and allow you to sit and enjoy them – it creates a great experience. You can read more about the Macrostie experience here from one of my favorite wine bloggers.
Next we were off to Iron Horse Vineyards to sample their famous sparkling wine as well as a few chardonnays and pinots. Iron Horse had a much more rustic feel and great outdoor tasting room with a fantastic view. They had a bubbly flight or a classic chardonnay/pinot nior flight available for $30. Iron Horse waives tasting fees with the purchase of a bottle (one bottle per waived tasting ). We shared the bubbly and classic flight and went home with two new bottles of wine.
After Iron Horse we headed to the Autocamp. Check-in was a breeze and we quickly got settled and procured bicycles for pedaling to town. We explored the main street and then hit the Safeway for dinner and smores supplies.
Day 2: A Coastal Hike and Brewery Tour
For our second day in Sonoma, we chose to head to the coast for a hike along Pomo Canyon Trail. Sitting at our campsite deep in the redwoods, it was hard to comprehend that the coast was only 25 minutes to the west.
We parked our car at Shell Beach parking lot right off of CA -1. We then crossed the road and began our ascent up the hill to the Pomo Canyon and Red Hill trail. The trail was amazing, we hiked though meadows of wildflowers, groves of sequoias and redwoods, and grasslands overlooking the Russian River and Pacific. Following our hike we picnicked on Shell Beach.
After our picnic we headed to Taft Street Winery. While breweries were our main destination for the day I couldn’t help stopping at one winery that happened to be on the way. Taft Street was a great option too – their tasting was only $10 dollars (no reservation needed) and we were offered several extra tastes. We left with an excellent bottle of zinfandel to enjoy at the campfire. Taft Street has a lovely alfresco patio and boccie ball – definitely worth a stop.
Crooked Goat Brewing in Sebastopol was the first stop on our brewery tour. The brewery is located in the Barlow, a 12 acre outdoor market district packed with local food, wine, beer, coffee, and crafts. The beer at Crooked Goat was great. I sipped samples of several light fruity beers (raspberry, blackberry, and grapefruit) while my husband sampled numerous IPAs and porters. I also popped over to Taylor Lane to grab a coffee as I had driving duty for the day. We could have easily spent the whole afternoon wandering the Barlow. It’s definitely worth a stop if you find yourself in Sanoma. Not into beer? There was a cidery across the street along with a distillery and multiple tasting rooms. Food and shopping options were also plentiful.
Our next stop was the Russian River Brewing Company about a 15 minute drive to the east. We hit the location in downtown Santa Rosa but they also have a larger Windsor location 20 minutes north. It was happy hour so our pints were only $4!!! Check this place out if you like aggressively hopped California style beers or Belgian inspired beers.
Our final stop on the brewery tour was Guerneville’s local Stumptown Brewery. While it wasn’t much to look at from the side of the road, they had a great deck overlooking the Russian River. A perfect place to sip cold beer.
After Stumptown we returned to the campsite and swapped the car for bikes. For dinner, we hit the Main Street Bistro which was rumored to have great pizza and live music.
Day 3: Canoeing, California Champagne, and Healdsburg
Our final full day in the Russian River Valley was the Fourth of July. We chose to start the day at Johnson’s Beach where we could rent a canoe and paddle down the river. The crowds were already building when we picked up our canoe at 10:00am – by the time we returned from our 2ish hour trip the beach was hopping!
Our next stop was the Korbel Champagne Cellars where we stopped for lunch, and a FREE tour and tasting. There’s a nice deli on the Korbel property and a lovely patio area where you can enjoy your sandwich with a glass of bubbly.
After Korbel we headed for La Crema. The La Crema Winery had a beautiful tasting room in a historic barn. The tasting experience was similar to Macrostie. Upon arrival we were greeted, offered a welcome drink, and seated at a table on one of the many balconies overlooking the vineyard. Our host helped us select tasting options and then brought each bottle out one at a time.
Our final stop was the town of Healdsburg. It was a charming area full of tasting rooms, restaurants, shopping and more. If you don’t want to deal with driving from vineyard to vineyard, you can stay in one of Healdsburg’s botique hotels and walk to over 20 tasting rooms including La Crema, Banshee, Selby, Siduri, and more. Read more about the town’s best tasting rooms and bars here.
What to Pack
First and foremost, I would say pack LAYERS! It’s amazing how much the temperature can change in one region. Mornings were chilly at our campsite in Guerneville – about 50 degrees F. However, it would heat up to into the 80s by mid-day. It was also cooler in the forest and breezy on the coast. Hiking boots and sunscreen are also a good idea – and a swimsuit for the river.
Winery Tips
Visit each winery’s website before you go and look for the following information:
- tastings/tour hours
- tasting fees (see if they waive fees with purchase too)
- reservations requirements
- how long the tasting/tour experience lasts